Kerala Fried Chicken

Yep, Kerala's answer to KFC...CHICKING!  

The food was what I expected...not so good, heavily breaded, and fried.  But I am so glad for the experience...kinda surreal, but westernly festive!  

In Kotayam for the Conference

Today we gave our final presentation (whew) and will spend a happy evening catching up with the friends we have gathered along the way on our adventure. There will be a fashion show and we are promised some disco dancing, or some other possible horror. The man who informed us about the dancing has been nicknamed, Mr. Happy Pants, for the little wiggle of anticipated excitement he makes every time he mentions it. :)
Today I am feeling very poorly and have started to take the emergency antibiotics I brought with me. I am affectionately called the phlegm fetale by my teammates. We are big on nicknames.

Off to buy some cold pills.

I wish you (ALMOST) a happy new year (in case I won't get to another cafe).
After tomorrow, we head to Trivandrum...then to Delhi! Cannot wait.

Cheers,
n

A picture from day 3

This is from a Wheel Chair project conducted by the rotary in the town of Balaramapura.  

A rural classroom-and info from Days 3-7--

We got no time to interact with this school in Balaramapura, but I was able to take  a quick, but not entirely candid photo of a bank of classrooms.  The wall dividers do little to keep distractions to a minimum.

To prepare for the next potential email opportunity, I have written this summary to cut and paste into an email in a short moment. Little did I know that technology would be so backward in a country that prides itself on the number of IT graduates.
Day 2 I have been quizzing my host for the proper way to say words in Malayalum. He is a great sport and I have learned the greeting and thank you.
Today we drove to Kovalam for a quick dip in the Arabian Sea then off to our first traditional Kerala lunch. As I am writing this with six days perspective now this was the first of many times eating this special lunch served with a minimum of 12 dishes on a large swath of banana leaf. After lunch we visited the Christ Nagar International School where we were greeting by children presenting garlands and tender coconut milk and flowers. This school is rather small with only 168 students across all grades because it just opened two or three years ago. Their is a tuition at this private school. At this program we were asked to speak about the 7 modern wonders of the world and the IB program. We later joined students for their carol practice. I requested Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer and sang with the children to their great amusement.
Day 3
Today we were a part of a Big Rotary presentation at Balaramapuram school, a very poor, rural, public school where students attend for 100 rupees a semester. Here we presented wheel chairs to local amputees and ceremonially planted a tea tree (one of 1000 donated by the Rotary). We were also presented with a saree to wear at the conference and enjoyed lunch at the house of the President of the Balaramapuram Rotary, D. Hemakumar. Two women with us, Leila and Jaiah (I am guessing at her spelling) have taken our measurements to make us the blouse. These will be returned to us in Kottayam, where the conference will be.
We also visited a hand weaving center where the men and women work for 10 hours a day for about $2.50 for their entire days wages. The work standing in wells so that their upper body is level with the loom as it sits on the floor. The repetitive motion causes many of the people to suffer debilitating arthritis. The workers welcomed us to photograph them and were very kind. The pictures were interesting, but the visit saddening. We also saw an Ayurvedic cloth dye-ing center.
Where Kathleen and I both bought very pretty scarves.
Later we drove a long way to Parassala for an evening meeting with charming company. I ate with Bhinja and Asha (mother and daughter-age 10), who were perfect company. In a discussion about bindis, Bhinja explained that anyone can where them without offending, she took hers off and placed it on my forehead herself. She is also 40 and we found a kinship with our shared age. She was proud of me for making the travel, especially after the scare of Mumbai. We were presented with brass plates as welcome.

On this day, I tried Honey Bee brandy-a local brand to Kerala-with a soda water. Our guests today were especially lively and so kind.

Day 4.
Leila, who escorted us yesterday, complained on our behalf about the break neck pace we are following, so today was much more relaxing. For the day we had outstanding escorts Ram and Umesh. They went above and beyond in so many ways. First they found us places to use the Internet. (no easy feat as there are no Internet cafes as we know them). Then we went to exchange some money, but only after Umesh ran between three different banks to find us the best exchange rate. He even somehow managed to get a better-than-posted rate at the bank we finally settled on. Our exchange at the airport was for 43 rupees for $1. Today we received 49.4 rupees for $1. Then we went to a pharmacy. (running personal errands...)
Finally, we were taken to Sankhumukam beach for a walk along the sand. The wide beach had soft sand and interesting little triangle huts for storing the fishing nets. Our guide said the entire family comes out early in the morning to pull in the nets and gather fish. There were several young couples hiding under umbrellas, which made me wish for my husband's hand to be in mine as I walked through the edge of the surf. We saw many wooden boats and also catamarans-which are logs tied together that the men float out on. The beach had many striking scenes.
We later went to a department store to see how people shop. The room with the materials to custom make the sarees was awash in color and pattern.
Later we drove to a local university and saw the behind the scenes dressing of the traditional dancers kathakali. They layer on the costumes first with a heavy makeup in vibrant colors, then rice bags folded over rope created a wide hoop skirt effect to give volume to the character. I was told this separated the gods from humans on the stage. Unfortunately, we waited and watched, but after an hour, they still were a LONG way away from show time, so we did not see them perform. I was asked to do an intro to a new report on the event, so I am on TV somewhere in India and maybe on the net. Maybe someone can check out www.itschool.gov.in (filmed for Victors information channel). My hostess calls me film star Niki. (pronounced fillemstar).
We had dinner with our Trivandrum Residency escorts and met their families, saw another type of traditional dance and a magician. This club was a happy party.


Day 5
This morning was a really special event for us, me especially for our visit to Cotton Hill Girls School. When we stepped onto the grounds, the auditorium irrupted in a thundering applause. SIX THOUSAND young, beautiful faces were smiling at us. When I waved, there was a sea of arms all waving. Their uniforms were simple, simple cream colored blouse and a green skirt and red scarf, scrunchie, or head dressing
We have such a crazy schedule that it is impossible to keep track of.

Day 7--Sunday
We added an early morning tea meeting to honor Leila, one of our hosts. Although she hosted Cheryl, she was like a mom to us all, giving advice and answering ALL of our many questions, including the really tough ones. This meeting included a question and answer time, which we all thought was a very good idea and a lot of fun. The ceremonies of the RI in Kerala are very formal with recognition for all dignitaries and guests by name and position and many introductions and re-introductions. So even today, the Q and A was cut short, just when we felt we were making a connection, and we were back on the bus to our next destination, breakfast at the home of the President of the Kazhakootam Rotary Club, Radhakrishnan Nair K. The town name is pronounced as "carakootam" with the zh making an r sound. We were greeted in much style and tradition with burning lamp and flowers in metal bowls and all members of the house dressed elegantly and assembled to present herbal garlands and bless us with a yellow mark on our foreheads. Although we could only get a little understanding of the ceremony, we felt most welcomed. This club presented us with sarees and for John a jubba and mundu (dhothi) to wear at the conference.
We then drove to the very dramatic Varkala beach where red rock cliffs edge the beach. There is a 2000 year old temple to Krishna we drove by and an asharam and memorial of Sree Narayana Guru that we visited. Unlike in other countries in Asia, the temples are not open all day but only during certain morning and evening hours. At the beach we watched Hindus pay homage to the dead with a ceremony and bury ashes in the sea.
Here we had a peaceful long swim and rinsed off the salt water in natural mineral springs running from tubing out of the side of the cliff,
We had late lunch with the Varkala (pronounced war-ka-lah) Rotary on the traditional banana leaf, but with a couple of different dishes. After our swim we were hungry. Then we went home to take rest before our dinner meeting with the club of Trivandrum East.

From December 1--Trying to catch up on notes, etc

I wrote these notes the first evening. . .  Since them, I have had little time to write and even less time to find Internet to post. This explains the out of order postings.

This picture is the moment we arrived.  We were presented with these garland.  The man in the picture is my host, Charly John.  

Upon arrival we were greeted by a charming group of local Rotarians with many hand shakes and smiles. We were presented with a small bouquet of flowers--a red rose and a white rose and presented with an elaborate garland of yellow sandalwood and red and gold decoration called a harim. (I may have spelled that incorrectly.) We were then photographed many times and taken to our respective host family's homes. I am the happy guest of Charly John, a gracious host, and his lovely wife Kunjamol. So far they have treated me to three meals (a large lunch, a sweet-filled tea, and a hearty dinner, yet I have only been with them since about 1:30 p.m. TODAY--. I am a little overwhelmed with all many items I am expected to try, but I am very much enjoying the delicious tastes. Charly informed me that they eat with their fingers, but brought me silverware to use. At lunch, I accepted the silverware as I was feeling a little uncoordinated from the travel. They also had bread and butter on the table, but with a few questions that was also as a courtesy to me in case I did not like the homemade food (as if...) I observed as discretely as possible, how they ate with their fingers to try for myself at the next meal.
Lunch consisted of many dishes: fish with tomato, brown chicken, roasted beet root, beet root with yoghurt sauce, a banana sauce (surprisingly spicy and not sweet), rice, two pickle dishes (mango, which was salty and dates, which were sweet), and yoghurt.
My afternoon snack of tea consisted of chocolate cake; biscuits; hawal (might be misspelled)-a fudge-consistency, very sweet; a pretty fried cookie with an elaborate design and a lightly sweet taste, and milky tea.
Dinner consisted of a different chicken dish, but like lunch, it was also a dark brown brown; a coconut paste fish dish--very like a stew, a salad of cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, and onion with lime juice; and a lovely bread with many layers. Kunjamol was pleased to answer my questions about cooking and assures me that the fish dish is not difficult to make. She uses a cup of coconut, a teaspoon of coriander, a half-teaspoon each of turmeric and chilies. I think that I will have to ask more question on the exact process to try at home for Andy. I would like to find a cookbook.
I am not allowed to help in the least, not even to clear the table. Charly tells me that it is the gift of Kunjamol to care for me and allow Charly time to entertain me. Charly and I had a whiskey and soda, which he insists would help to settle my stomach, and I shared the pictures I brought with me of family, friends, and my students. We enjoyed a long discussion of the people dear to me. He thinks that Andy looks so very young. How's that, Mister-Almost-40?

Other events of interest, but in less detail as I am soon expected:
Charly took me on an errand run. Traffic is not as frenetic as Cambodia or Vietnam, but it is pretty bustling. There are a LOT of motorcycles--that are driven with no apparent rules o the road.
I saw a bike accident. I think the man is okay, but he hurt his arm. Bystanders swooped in to assist him.
The town has many pretty lights, the most dramatic for a polital/communism conference with long strands of gold and orange and red lights from the sweeping branches of the trees. Red is draped everywhere.
In the night sky there is a special astrological event. There are two planets or stars very near the sliver of a moon. Together they create a perfect smiley face. Charly says it only happens every 74 years!

Christmas Stars

I think the US should star hanging these little babies.  They are made of stiff paper and cost less than a dollar.  :)

They are beautiful with a light inside.  Aw. 

No snow, but at least some cheer.  

Christmas in Paradise

We had a quiet day today and some time to email, skype, and be by ourselves. This silly picture looks a little like we are at a prom.  It made us laugh, but our senses of humor are a little wonky these days.  Stress makes the weirdest things really humorous.  

Celebrating Christmas in the 90 degree sun is really odd, even though we have Christmas stars and our gift exchange to assuage the missing of our loved ones.  I bought a Malayalam Christmas song CD...not so effective for evoking that Christmas spirit.  We resorted to YouTube and the Little Drummer Boy song with David Bowie and Bing Crosby.  Yep, I have listened to it four times.  What can I say, I am homesick.  

Santa Says...

As the days wind down in the approach toward Christmas, I am becoming more eager for the holiday. The heat creates a disconnect for me...Christmas means snow, not 85 degrees and sweaty. Christmas also means family and I am missing Andy and my fam very much.

The santas here are really funny looking and a little creepy--with balloons and these goofy masks. All in good cheer.
I am unsure if I will have more email time...so Merry Christmas. Or as they say in Kerala--Happy Christmas!

Polio Plus and other holy endeavors

I was invited to attend a Rotary International- sponsored polio vaccination event AND asked to administer the vaccine to one small baby. Pretty cool, eh? The RI stives to erradicate polio by offering vaccination stations like this all over India. Go Rotary!

Sadly, the uniformed in neighboring states, still struggle to accept the treatments for fear of sterilization. You may have heard that a boy who had been treated for encephalitis was vaccinated in Tamil Nadu--and later died. The local paper there said that he died from the vaccine and not his original ailment. This has created a bit of a stir and further challenge to the full erradication of Polio in India. Pakistan and Afghanistan two other locations where polio is found. I believe these three places (India-primarily in the north, and Pakistan and Afghanistan) are the last of the polio ridden areas. Muslim clerics seem to preach actively against the vaccination--saying the US is trying to sterilize their children.

Then, the next day, we visited this cathedral outside of Alleppey (closer to Kotayam in a town whose name I did not catch). The original church was for St. Sebastian. We saw a museum of old church artifacts, a never-emptying spring that Mary was proported to have visited, and a very well-kept and manicured cemetery. The church was quite impressive, but had VERY clear evidence of the merging of the Hindu and Catholic faiths. In one picture, Christ was painted as a guru. They also sell tokens for wishes and requests for healings JUST like we saw in a Hindu temple. Oil also plays an important role here and for the temples, too. It is interesting to see first hand the blending of two cultures.

Not for the feint of heart NOR for Secret Santas

So here are items I by-passed as unsatisfactory choices for Secret Santa gifts while browsing the festival in Alleppey.

I especially liked the large machette at center, but had to continue looking elsewhere.

A festival in Alleppey

In the town we stayed at for days 19-22, there was a huge festival, basically a competition between two temples on either end of a long street. The street was festooned with streamers, ribbons, colored lights and all kinds of booths selling mostly plastic stuff. The locals were having a blast buying bangles and whistles; horns and popcorn; sugarcane drinks and peacock feather fans. It was GREAT Fun. We were allowed some free time to explore and haggle. I bought some of my Team Secret Santa gift. We set a budget of 500 rupees ($10) and are finding that is a difficult amount to spend. We have rules, of course: No regifting and no repeating (of the sarees, or traditional items we have received). Since we have received quite a many presents, this is a bit of a challenge. We are also trying to purchase items that the other person might appreciate, complicating things a bit. Plus, much of what we see is high "tack" or are items we could not possibly get back home, so we are even further limited.

At night, the real action happens...and I am glad to say that I was unable to participate in any of the evening events. My host, Prashant, said that if you rub oil on your body and wade into the crowd, you get a free body massage and don't even have to use your feet to walk. The crowd will propell you forward. We drove by and there was a sea of people as far as I could see. I had no desire in the hot, muggy weather to be THAT close to the locals.

Evil is as Evil does

I have been on the short end of the Internet stick, so to speak, being the one team member to never have working Internet at the host families with whom we are staying. So I am far behind on my travel tales. Twice now, I have attempted to submit a blog...and both have failed. I am apparently NOT in favor with the Internet gods. Who would have thought that India would be SO backwards with access to technology? They graduate hundreds of thousands of IT professionals every year. Conversely, I find it also a bit funny that we have yet to see any post cards. Yep, this is my first trip where I will not send post cards to mark my many adventurous steps. Maybe in New Delhi...

But today, I seem to have a bit more technological luck. I will pick up from around where we are currently on day 23 (Tuesday), and later will write more and add stories from the beginning of our trip.

This has been quite a whirlwind, to say the least. Every day our itinerary changes more and more, and for the most part, that makes up the better part of the fun. We have happened upon many a festival, Christmas stars abound, and the scenery is lush and exotic if one can ignore the trash strewn across much of the landscape. We visited a town in the Pathamunthitta area, where an art culture thrives. Students from all over the world come to study different forms of Indian drumming, yoga, local cooking, mural painting, wood carving, martial arts, and dance--including the Kathakali. Kathakali is only found in Kerala, and I am sorry to say I have yet to see it performed. I have seen the elaborate costuming and makeup which takes HOURS to put on. We watched a team get dressed for at least one hour and they only dressed two men (with I don't know how many to follow). The dance is done over four days from sundown to sunup and tells the tale of the mythology of India.

In this cultural village, we saw mirrors made from stone, polished to an unbelievablty perfect shine with no distortion. We were told that only two families know the secret to how it is done. hmmm.

Also in the village, we were shown the 9 faces of emotion, many other ritualistic symbols for all forms of nature, and a little of the Kathakali dance postures. They even let us try on the headdresses. This picture of me is my most evil face, inspired by the wearing of the "Bad Guy" headdress. How did I do?

Busy and loving it

Email is scarce...some host families have it and some do not. So I am feeling very disconnected for a variety of reasons.
This type of travel is very different than what I am used to. We are VERY sheltered and unable to interact with common folk. In fact, I purchased a bottle of water from a market shop for the first time in 9 days--we are provided with water, don't get me wrong, but we have to ask. I am much more of an independent traveler and am coming to realize how much I miss the daily interactions with regular people in a region.
This experience has given me much to think about, be thankful for, and learn from.
I miss home. I miss my sweet man. But, I cannot express the simple moments that bring such joy: a breeze off the Arabian sea, a smile from a little child, a blessing from an old mother, and sharing fellowship with good people. We are only in the beginning of our second week and already my suitcase is overstuffed.
Today, I was given a gift of a lovely fushia saree with gold decorative trim in the shape of birds. (I miss my birdie). Last night I was given a traditional Kpants and long tunic. It is fun to play dress up!

Tender Coconut is NOT sweet like we think of coconut

This has a delicious, yoghurty taste.  Slightly salty in flavor and fun to drink.  We have had several now as part of our welcomes!  

Info from Day 1 - I could not get it to post with the picture

Beautiful beach.  We could only spend one hour before rushing off to our next meeting.  The water was bathtub warm and refreshing, making the short time all the more sweet!

From Day One